"Jagvar" (Jagvar)
04/02/2014 at 15:40 • Filed to: None
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"Jagvar" (Jagvar)
04/02/2014 at 15:40 • Filed to: None | 0
| 11 |
Sometimes I daydream about what I'd get as a DD if my Galant ever bites the dust. Here's what I know I want for sure:
1. Something within the VW/Audi family
2. Something used/pre-owned.
3. Something with under 90K miles.
4. Something I can afford to buy with cash (I don't want a car payment). That means under $10K.
5. Something that costs less to maintain than a Phaeton.
I've considered the Golf, Jetta, and Audi A3, but recently I've been wondering about the !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! and !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! . There are several out there that fit the first four of my criteria (see links). But are these cars huge headaches to maintain? Is one a better option than the other? Thoughts appreciated.
EL_ULY
> Jagvar
04/02/2014 at 15:42 |
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I own a C5 A6 avant Quattro with the 2.8L V6, I can answer specific questions :]
jkm7680
> Jagvar
04/02/2014 at 15:48 |
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I've got an 08 A4 2.0T B7.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
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Jagvar
> EL_ULY
04/02/2014 at 15:48 |
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Just curious: what have been the major maintenance issues, and what does it cost you to maintain per year, on average?
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Jagvar
> jkm7680
04/02/2014 at 15:50 |
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Same question, actually: what have been the major maintenance issues, and what does it cost to maintain per year (average)?
bob and john
> Jagvar
04/02/2014 at 15:50 |
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if you are willing to look around and pay more, you could find an A3 TDI.
the fuel saving on those things is PHENOMENAL. on ours, in the Canadian winter, we get 50mpg with regularity,
over 120k km, the only thing that has gone bad with ours was a O2 sensor in the exhaust. $20 part
please note is u have any issue with the older TDIs: this is a newer, common-rail ingection, VS the older PD motors.
Sn210
> Jagvar
04/02/2014 at 15:50 |
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I spotted this RS6 for sale around the corner from me. I might have to go check it out. It should be cheaper to maintane than the Phaeton by like, $20 right?
Party-vi
> Jagvar
04/02/2014 at 15:50 |
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You know about German maintenance. You know that and AWD drive train is going to require twice the service of a 2WD setup. You know luxury cars cost more to insure than non-luxury cars (although they may cut you a break just to get that Galant off their books). My decade-old German car has already cost me $1,500 this year, and previously almost $2,000 last year (regular maintenance items, not actually failed or broke). Remember that shop labor is going to run you $90-$120 an hour around here.
I'm sure you can afford one (and the maintenance), but do you want to?
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jkm7680
> Jagvar
04/02/2014 at 15:55 |
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Well, I bought it last year. 85,000 miles. It's got 90,000 on it currently.
I've put around $1,250 in maintenance. New clutch, Various bits and pieces of interior trim have been replaced. My car was on warranty for a month of my ownership. The previous owner of the car did drive it fairly hard, and neglected to fix the burning oil problem. This problem usually occurs around 40,000 miles, and from my experience it should take around $500 to replace it. Everything else about the car has mainly been trouble free. Parts and service, if anything is what will get you in the end.
Saracen
> Party-vi
04/02/2014 at 16:00 |
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"You know that and AWD drive train is going to require twice the service of a 2WD setup."
I had a B6 Avant. There is no service required for a Torsen quattro system. None.
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Party-vi
> Saracen
04/02/2014 at 16:06 |
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I should have said "maintenance" vs "service".
You've got twice as many CV joints, an additional rear diff (as opposed to just a FWD vehicle), a driveshaft, etc.
I'm not saying it's more unreliable, just that the potential for parts to fail has now increased because you added more parts. I just had my rear diff seals replaced for a ridiculous amount of money at 135,000 miles. Probably would not have needed that if my car were FWD.
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Saracen
> Jagvar
04/02/2014 at 16:13 |
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I think the costs of maintaining A4's is blown out of proportion. If you follow a routine schedule and change oil regularly with a quality synthetic, the serious issues will not exist.
There are a few things to watch out for though. (I had a B6 chassis, almost identical to the B7)
Window regulators: a little plastic piece in the window mechanism can break. This happened to me at around 50k, in both front windows. Will cost around $200 per window.
Control arms: The non-replaceable bushings in the front control arms will fall apart, usually around 100k miles. Mine were on the way out when I sold it. About $500-$700 for a complete set.
Motor mounts and snub mount: ditto the above. $200-$300 for parts.
As far as engine goes, my car has a 2.0T FSI, same as the B7 (albeit with a different turbo).
PCV: these systems are crappy and known to fail, causing boost leaks. I replaced mine with a catch can setup, which has its own benefits anyway.
Carbon buildup: this plagues all direct injected engines. audis are no exception. I might get it done soon.
Cam follower: this actuates the high pressure fuel pump via a cam lobe on the engine. This is a $40 piece that will wear out within 40,000 miles...but if you have an upgraded HPFP (such as from APR) it could wear out within 10k miles! It was a ten minute job to replace it myself at 37k (my car has a stage one tune, with no upgraded pump). Inspect every 30k miles and change oil regularly to extend its life. A broken cam follower will cause serious damage to the top end.